Chef Nao Sugiyama opened this unpretentious (read casual decour) spot after a stint in SoHo's Katana in the 90's. He serves in the traditional kaiseki style, a tasting menu consisting of between six and 12 small courses. Dinner typically starts with the raw and light, ending with cooked and more filling. These don't come cheap, but the $100 "Chef Nao’s Choices" eight-course kaiseki is certainly well-worth the price. While we are partial to kaiseki at Rosanjin Tribeca for a number of reasons, the kaiseki experience here is certainly enjoyable and memorable.